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Yoga and Costa
Rica
seem made for each other |
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Yoga in Costa Rica
Costa Rica and yoga seem made for each other. Maybe it’s the
country’s slower pace, the heat, or the air supersaturated
with oxygen given off by dense rainforests. Whatever the reason,
it seems easier to breath here, to stretch, and to quiet the chatter
in your mind.
Nowadays in Costa Rica, yoga retreats and teacher training programs
are cropping up everywhere you look. Which makes sense in this land
so fertile that even the rural fences—stripped branches stuck
in dry ground—can’t help but bloom.
The three longest-lived yoga centers in Costa Rica are: Nosara
Yoga Institute, on the Pacific coast, the most serious
teacher-training spot and within walking distance of good surfing
beaches; Pura Vida Spa, high
in the Central Valley and a short ride from the San Jose airport,
the most luxurious of three, with massage and spa treatments available
alongside daily yoga classes; and Samasati
Nature Reserve, perched just above the Caribbean coast
and the most peaceful and remote of the trio.
Below I’ll go into greater detail about each of these spots,
and also describe a few other studios. This short list, of course,
barely scratches the surface of the burgeoning and ever-changing
yoga scene in Costa Rica.
Also try the Costa
Rica Association of Yoga Teachers (ASOYOGACR) for more
information, especially their ever-growing list
of studios in the capitol city of San Jose and in the surrounding
Central Valley.
Name: NOSARA YOGA INSTITUTE
Web site: http://www.nosarayoga.com/
Location: In the small beach town of Nosara, on
the Pacific coast, halfway down the Nicoya Peninsula (Guanacaste
Province)
Getting there: Either fly to San José and
rent a car and drive (a five or six hour drive, and a great trip
but not for the faint of heart—it’s easy to get lost,
and some of the roads aren’t paved) or fly in a small plane
from San José to Nosara.
Type of yoga practiced: Interdisciplinary.
“Though we’ve had training in many styles, we’re
not jumping on board any specific style—no one system has
all the answers,” says cofounder Amba Stapleton
Summary: Nosara Institute was founded in 1994
by Americans Amba and Don Stapleton. Both have taught yoga for decades.
Amba is co-creator of Pranassage Practitioner Training (formally
known as Yogassage); Don has a Ph.D. in Art Education, is the author
of Self Awakening Yoga, and was director of Kripalu Institute
in Massachusetts for 19 years. The Institute offers 200, 500 and
1000-hour teacher training courses. The 200-hour certification
is a month-long program offered in January, July, and November.
It costs $3,800, not including room and board. Other months
there are shorter and more diverse programs on offer, like a 50-hour
“Self-Awakening Yoga Retreat." Throughout most
of the year there are drop-in classes for tourists and locals, including
a popular “Yoga for Surfers” class. Of the three major
retreat centers in the country, Nosara is the one closest to the
ocean, and the nearest beach is known as a good place to learn to
surf.
Who comes here: Mostly people from the U.S.
and Canada; lots from New York and California.
Capacity: They often have around 60 students for
their month-long teacher training sessions; other times of the year
there are usually fewer people.
Caveat: Because there are no accommodations or
food facilities in the Institute itself, students stay in nearby
hotels or rented houses and eat in restaurants. Those looking
for a retreat—where you never leave the community and where
you have little contact with the outside world—probably wouldn’t
choose Nosara.
From Alma Stapleton, co-founder: “We want
to create creative teachers, using yoga as the avenue. Yoga’s
not the be-all end-all. It’s a way of keeping people
hooked into their creative juices, to keep them alive.”
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| Lunch at Pura Vida |
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Name: PURA VIDA SPA
Web site: http://www.puravidaspa.com/
Location: 7 k north of Alajuela (near San
José and the Juan Santamaría International Airport)
Getting there: It’s close to the international
airport, and there’s an airport pickup service. If you’re
driving on your own, get very explicit directions—it’s
easy to get lost.
Type of yoga practiced: Depends on the featured
teacher. When there’s no featured teacher, the general program,
called Mind Body Spirit (MBS) is hatha-based and geared towards
the beginner. The weeklong all-inclusive yoga and excursions
package costs from $1,200 to $2,800 depending on accommodation quality
and time of year (May-November is cheaper).
Summary: A centrally-located yoga retreat with
spectacular views of the Central Valley and beautifully landscaped
grounds, Pura Vida also has high-quality massage (including watsu
in a newly-built pool) and spa treatments. With their package
deals you can combine yoga with sightseeing and other activities.
Sometimes the place is taken over by a celebrity teacher or author
like Baron Baptiste, Ana Forrest, or Eckhart Tolle, and you sign
up with him or her rather than with Pura Vida itself (see web site
for schedule). Founded by Pauline and Michael Clegg (the latter
is known as Satyam Nadeen, author of From Onions to Pearls);
they bought a coffee plantation in 1985 with a few buildings on
the property, and opened for guests several years later.
Who comes here: When I was there it was mostly
Americans, mostly women, and mostly professional and well-traveled
individuals. Ages ranged from early thirties to mid sixties.
Clientele varies according to which teacher is being featured.
Capacity: Up to 100 guests for special events
but usual capacity is
around 60.
Caveats: There’s a bit of the walled compound
feel to the place—razor-wired fences surround the grounds. This
is par for the course in Costa Rica, especially in the well-populated
Central Valley, but it does add to the sense of the place being
in but not of Costa Rica.
From Rakesh, the marketing manager: "Our
commitment is to promote wellness through nature. Wellness in mind,
body and spirit is our emphasis here. We offer a variety of retreats
and workshops all with the intent of making us whole and raising
the level of consciousness in the world. Our wellness center offers
a menu of treatments ranging from highly focused modalities to indulgent
spa treatments. All our therapists have the ability to be present
and loving with their touch, which opens the gates to healing."
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| Samasati Nature Reserve |
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Name: SAMASATI NATURE RESERVE
Web site: http://www.samasati.com/
Location: Near Hone Creek and Puerto Viejo, on
Costa Rica’s Caribbean (east) coast
Getting there: Fly to San Jose and then by light
plane to Puerto Viejo, or rent a car (make sure it’s four-wheel
drive to get up Samasati’s long, steep driveway) and make
the 3 hour drive. Or take the bus from San Jose to Hone Creek
or Puerto Viejo and Samasati will come pick you up.
Type of yoga practiced: Interdisciplinary
Summary: The smallest and most remote of the three
major Costa Rican retreats described here, Samasati definitely lives
up to the ‘nature reserve” part of its name. It’s
a lush and peaceful place where you might see a troop of howler
monkeys on your way to morning yoga. In 1994, Italians Massimo Monti
and Sylvia and Chiara Zani, along with Argentine Billy Gonzales,
pooled their resources to buy 250 acres of rainforested ridge top
near the Caribbean coast town of Hone Creek. The four founders
met at an ashram in India, and they wanted to create in Costa Rica
a meditative spot that blended with the natural environment and
also provided work opportunities for the local community. Three
years later Samasati received its first guest. Since then
it has hosted individual visitors and opened its doors to teachers
who rent the place out for a week or so, bringing their own students
with them. Two-week intensive 200-RYT Training Programs
are sponsored by the Marianne Wells Yoga School. Lodging, meals
and classes run from $3,265 to 3,685 depending on whether you’re
in the guest house or a bungalow. The pleasant and airy
all-wood bungalows with an Asian-inspired sense of design and simplicity.
There are also a handful of private houses on the property, which
can be rented out, and the reserve is selling off pieces of its
land to individuals who want to build their own homes.
Caveats: It can feel a bit isolated up on the
hill here, a feeling some may welcome. Everything here is
on a smaller scale, so while, for instance, Pura Vida may have a
dozen massage therapists on staff, Samasati has one, and she may
not be available at the time you’d like a massage.
Who comes here: Visitors are mostly from the U.S.
and Canada.
Capacity: 45 – 50, when bungalows and the
rental houses are all at capacity.
From Lucy Huneault, Manager: “Because we
are small and don’t want to grow bigger, we are really a family. We
give lots of attention to our clients Whether they’re
groups or individuals, we will do everything to give them what they
need. I always say to people, when I come down these stairs
into the restaurant, I don’t want to have numbers on people’s
heads. I know the name of each client staying in each bungalow. This
is very important, and you can only do that if you’re small.”
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| Downward
Dog, Costa Rica Style |
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Other Options
Hacienda del Sol
Location: San Juanillo, north of Nosara on the Nicoya Peninsula
Web site: http://www.pachamama.com
A small retreat center (capacity is 40) that offers raw food and
juice ‘cleanses’ with daily meditation and yoga. All-inclusive
prices for a week start at $700 per person. Before founding Hacienda
del Sol in 1995, owner Menlha headed the Relaxation Plus Clinic
in Nelson, Canada, and then created the Kootenay School of Rebalancing,
now based at Hacienda del Sol.
Pachamama
Location: On the Nicoya peninsula, inland from Nosara.
Web site: http://www.pachamama.com/default.asp
Summary: A secluded “eco-village a 6-hour drive from San José”that
draws people from around the world. Not a yoga retreat or studio
per se, but they do offer yoga classes; they also rent out wooden
casitas by the month and for shorter stays; 3 vegetarian meals per
day are included in the price.
Calling itself a “living social experiment” and a “spiritual
village,” Pachamama is presided over by Tyohar, who studied
with Osho (aka Bhagwan Shree Rajneesh) in India; later, in the Himalaya
mountains, Tyohar's “awakening blossomed into oneness and
a let-go of the illusion of self happened.” Different teachers
at Pachamama teach different yoga styles, including vinyasa, hatha,
and yoga flow. They offer many kinds of yoga programs, including
5-day detox fasts (about $600) that include daily yoga and individual
acupuncture sessions.
Montezuma Yoga at Los Mangos Hotel
Location: Montezuma, southern Nicoya Peninsula
Web site: www.montezumayoga.com
Phone in Costa Rica: 506-642-0076
Summary: Hatha-vinyasa classes (and some week-long retreats) taught
in a thatch-roofed, open-air pavilion on the grounds of Hotel Los
Mangos. The hotel is a few miles south of Montezuma, right
across the (unpaved) street from the beach, and a short walk from
one of my newest favorite restaurants—Playa de los Artistas,
where you can enjoy excellent Italian food while digging your toes
into the sand and looking out over the waves.
Anamaya Mind Body & Spirit Resort
Location: Montezuma
Web site: http://anamayaresort.com
Summary: Daily (except Sunday) yoga classes are mostly in the Anusara
style, itself a school of Hatha yoga. The resort, perched on a hill
above town, has sweeping views, healthy food, and an infinity saltwater
pool. Anamaya also offers a variety of weeklong yoga retreats, like
Fire Dancing and Yoga (taught by a former Cirque du Soleil Fire
Dancer), Aerial Dance, and Yoga and Detox. Month-long teacher training
courses include meals, lodging, excursions and the coursework that
will allow you to become a certified yoga teacher. In 2011
teacher training is offered in May (for $4,495) and October (from
$3,495 - $3,995). Remember that Dec – April is Costa
Rica’s dry season. May can be rainy and October will almost
certainly be.
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| Stefano
Allegri |
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Oceanfront Yoga Shalu at Flor Blanca Resort
Web site: http://www.florblanca.com/
Location: Santa Teresa (near Mal País)
Summary: This very upscale beachfront hotel has a small open-air
studio where ashtanga, vinyasa, and pilates classes are taught.
Pranamar Oceanfront Villas and Yoga Retreat
Location: Santa Teresa
Web site: http://pranamarvillas.com/
The folks who started Flor Blanca (Susan Money and Greg Mullins)
are now behind Pranamar, along with co-owner Stefano Allegri, an
Italian-born yogi and martial arts instructor. Susan’s daughter
Nancy Goodfellow teaches daily Shakti Flow yoga classes and private
lessons, and coordinates their Yoga Retreats program. Besides Nancy’s
morning class there is often an afternoon class—from slow
flow to Afro-Caribbean dance to the free community class on Fridays.
Weeklong retreats feature anurusa and vinyasa yoga, include meals,
lodging, two yoga classes a day, one surf lesson a day. The
all–inclusive week goes for anywhere from $1,725 to $2,725,
depending on whether or not you share lodging and which villa you’re
housed in.
DoceLunas Hotel and Spa
Web site: www.docelunas.com
Location: Jacó
Summary: Classes and retreats at this small yoga studio perched
just above a nice hotel on the outskirts of a popular Pacific coast
resort town.
Shooting Star Yoga
Web site: http://www.yogapavones.com/
Location: Pavones
Summary: Amy Khoo and Alexander Outerbridge teach classes and give
retreats in a beautiful open-air pavilion with a view of the beach.
Alexander also owns a surf shop in town.
Luna Lodge
Location: The Osa Peninsula
Web site: http://www.lunalodge.com
Summary. A lovely and remote rainforest lodge and retreat center
that brings a variety of teachers in to give week-long programs
such as Kundalini Yoga, Parayoga, Power Yoga, and Exploring the
Wilderness Within.
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